When most people clean their hydroponic systems they use a hypochloride or hydrogen peroxide wash that they think kills all the bacteria and potentially hazardous substances within their setup. However few people realize that – although the system is indeed sterilized – the bast amount of harmful substances and chemicals (even those coming from the plastics themselves) remain intact after the attack of either hypochloride or peroxide. For example, many of the harmful plasticizers and complexes used for the making of PVC and other polymers remain intact after a rigorous wash with these two cleaning agents. So what can we do to truly clean our hydroponic systems and get rid of all the bad things that may be quietly waiting their turn to get into our plants ? The answer comes in the form of a very well known process used world-wide to clean water supplies from toxic chemicals : the Fenton process.

In the late 19th century, Henry John Horstman Fenton discovered a chemical process which was able to oxidize the most resilient organic molecules and turn them into harmless chemicals. As a matter of fact, Fenton’s process was so revolutionary that it sprouted a whole new area of research called Fenton chemistry in honor of its discoverer. What was this wonderful discovery ? Within the next few paragraphs you will learn what the Fenton reagent and process are all about and – most importantly – how this process can help you clean, I mean REALLY clean, your hydroponic system between growth cycles.
–

–
If you have been preparing your own hydroponic solutions and you have been using hydrogen peroxide then you already have most of the things you need to do some Fenton chemistry. The process basically works by adding a source of iron ions (they must NOT be chelated, like iron (II) sulfate) and hydrogen peroxide to a water solution. The iron ions then catalyze a series of reactions that generate powerful oxidizing radicals that destroy almost all harmful organic substances within your system. The iron ions are KEY to the Fenton process since they allow peroxide to generate this extremely reactive substances that are never present when peroxide exists on its own (reactions shown above). Research has found – for example – that phenol (a common chemical used as a model contaminant) remains unchanged in the presence of large concentrations of hydrogen peroxide while it is quickly destroyed in the presence of the Fenton reagent (Iron ions plus hydrogen peroxide). So what do you need to do ?

It is key for you to use a non-chelated iron source since chelated iron sources such as FeEDTA or FeEDDHA do NOT work well since the chelate does not allow the iron ions to properly react and participate in the Fenton chemistry that should be going on. The pH adjustment step is also vital since a pH above 5 would cause the formation of FeOH3 instantly upon the addition of H2O2 with the subsequent catalytic decomposition of all the H2O2 by the iron hydroxide (this is NOT something we want !). After you use the Fenton reagent to clean your system you will be certain that a lot of the harmful organic molecules that were present have been destroyed and your system will now be able to play as a sterile and harmless host to your new set of beautiful plants.

Definitely one of the most important problems dealing with the stability of hydroponic solutions is the availability of the iron (Fe+2 or Fe+3) ions. Since iron easily forms hydroxides and insoluble salts with other ions present in hydroponic media it becomes essential for us to provide iron in a way which is accessible to the plant and does not “come out” of the hydroponic solution through precipitation. Within the next few paragraphs I will talk to you about different iron sources available to hydroponic growers and which source is actually the best one we can use in hydroponic nutrient solutions. We will go through the different factors that make an iron source better or worse and finally we will be able to choose one as the ideal source for our nutrient needs.

What is the problem with iron ? The main problem we have with iron is that – unlike most other transition metal ions in hydroponic solutions – it is a very strong hard lewis acid which easily forms insoluble salts with many of the hard lewis bases within our hydroponic solutions. When iron is added to a nutrient solution in its “naked” form (for example when adding iron (II) sulfate) the ion easily reacts with carbonate, phosphate, citrate, oxalate, acetate or hydroxide ions to form insoluble compounds that make the iron effectively unavailable to our plants. To put it in simpler terms, iron ions have a chemical nature which is similar but opposite to that of many other constituents of our hydroponics solution meaning that when they meet together they form a “perfect match” that does not easily separate.

There is not only a problem with the higher inherent chemical match-making of iron with the anions present within the solution but we also have the problem that iron is always present at a much higher concentration than the other micronutrients. So even though some transition metals like copper would suffer from similar problems the fact is that they do not simply because of their much lower concentration (Fe is usually around 3-5 ppm while Cu is usually around 0.05-0.01 ppm).
–
–
The solution to this problem is actually easy and comes in the form of chelating agents that “wrap” around the iron ions and make them disappear to anions that may want to form stable salts with them. There are many of these chelating agents with the most commonly used being EDDHA, EDTA and DTPA. They are different due to the fact that their stability is different and their abilities to dissolve iron are also different. While all of them make sure iron stays within solution EDTA only allows this to happen until pH 5-6 while, DTPA takes it until about 8 and EDDHA to more than 9. The most stable iron complex is definitely FeEDDHA but this does not make it necessarily the best candidate for hydroponic growing.

The fact is that although EDDHA binds iron much more strongly it decomposes easier within the hydroponic solution than EDTA or DTPA (this is due to the fact that EDDHA is composed of several different isomers, some of which are not very stable), reason why this complex appears to be but is not the best solution for hydroponic nutrient solutions. The best compromise between stability and durability is earned by DTPA which gives us a very stable complex and a strong resistance to decomposition. So next time you are looking into getting a new complex for your Fe needs, try FeDTPA (this salt can also be used with my hydroponic calculator).

One of the biggest questions people ask when starting to grow hydroponic crops deals with the stabilization of pH and the use of chemical buffers to keep pH levels at acceptable ranges during long periods of time. The question is very relevant since changes in the pH of a nutrient solution can cause a lot of problems related to nutrient availability and having to add large quantities of acids or bases to correct the deviations is also not something plants will enjoy very much. What we need to do then is to keep pH levels within an acceptable range, for a period at least long enough to last a few weeks.

On previous posts I have talked about the way in which I do this using ion exchange resins but these can be too expensive or hard to find for most hydroponic growers out there. More over, chemical buffers are often much easier to use, get and apply although their actual mechanism of action is much less effective and much more aggressive than that of the ion exchange resins. A chemical buffer is mainly a substance which is added into your solution that distributes itself as different ionic species that can react either with acids or with bases at certain pH levels. The buffer however is also available for your plants to absorb and therefore we are limited to chemical buffers which are not phytotoxic (toxic to plants) and which allow us to control pH within the range we want.

From the very large library of chemical buffers available to the modern chemist, only a handful are suitable for their use in hydroponics and – even then – most of these are actually not practical in the sense that they are extremely expensive for the home grower. Certain organic buffers like MES offer extremely good results although they are hard to buy and very expensive, a reason why they are not used widely in hydroponic culture (this buffer is used mainly on hydroponic research where precision – and not cost – is the main determinant factor).

The buffers we are left with are then very simple organic and inorganic substances that have low phytotoxicity and some compatibility with the other ions present in our hydroponic setup. From these ions phosphate species, citrate species and carbonates are the most important ones we can use within our hydroponics setup. However we are limited by the actual concentration values of each we can use and for this reason we cannot have unlimited buffering capacity from these sources.

Which one is best ? We can actually carry out simulations to show us the pH vs acid-base addition for different hydroponic solution constitutions using mathematical equations. Running these simulations requires the solution of highly complex systems of equations which contain all the information relative to the chemical equilibrium of all the different existing ionic species. The below shown simulations were carried out using the Mathematica computer program (all solutions are assumed to be adjusted to an initial pH of 5.8 with a strong acid or base).
–
–
The blue curve represents the behavior of a poorly buffered hydroponic solution with only about 0.002M phosphate concentration (about 50 ppm of P). The red and yellow curves represent two solutions with increasing levels of carbonate showing us that if you are battling pH increases, having more carbonate will definitely help you deal with this. However it is also clear that carbonate concentrations at pH 5.8 are restricted to around 100 ppm since values above this are bound to cause toxicity due to the very large presence of the hydrogen carbonate ion. The green curve represents an increase in the amount of phosphate from 0.002 to 0.004M (about 100 ppm) with carbonate, showing us that phosphates are not good at buffering increases towards the upper side but they do increase buffering towards acid territory. Overall I also noticed that citrate concentration increases to the maximum threshold allowed by calcium citrate solubility did not afford a very good buffering effect with only a mild effect that prevented shifts towards the downside.

In the end, the conclusion seems to be that in a regular hydroponics system where pH increases generally happen towards the upside it is better to use carbonate as a buffering agent than to use citrate or phosphate although phosphate at its regular concentration in hydroponic does provide some buffering against pH moves (without phosphate increases are much more dramatic). For this reason I believe that a phosphate/carbonate buffer seems to be the best choice for most hydroponic growers, taking care to keep the concentrations at levels that do not cause precipitation or phytotoxicity problems.

On the last tutorial dealing with my hydroponic nutrient calculator we learned how to prepare A and B concentrated nutrient solutions for any given formulation we would like. We learned about the different incompatibilities that need to be avoided and why this leads to the creation of two separate solutions. After learning how to prepare these solutions many of you may be interested in knowing how to make the three part formulations commonly made available by most hydroponic nutrient sellers. For example, companies like Advanced Nutrients and General Hydroponics offer three part formulas which are meant to be combined to ensure adequate nutrition during a plant’s whole growing cycle. Today I am going to explain to you the main objectives of a three part formula, the difference with a two part formula and how you too can prepare your OWN three part nutrients to feed your hydroponic plants through their whole vegetable, flowering and fruiting cycles. As with the past two tutorials you will need to download my hydroponic nutrient calculator available here for free.

What is the difference between a 2 and a 3 part formulation ? What we need to understand here is that plants usually have different needs through their whole life cycle and therefore they require different nutrient ratios as they grow older and face different stages of their development. With a two part concentrated nutrient based formulation we can only vary this ratios in a certain way and doing any variations outside this scope will not be possible. With the default approach in my calculator you can vary nutrient ratios by varying the “desired formulation” every time you prepare your reservoir again (since most nutrients are added directly) but with the A and B concentrated solutions you are bound to “stick” to a certain set of concentration values for each nutrient.
––
The solution to this problem is quite simple and this is what most commercial fertilizer sellers have come up with. You have two solutions with the same salts but varied nutrient ratios and a third solution that remains constant. What we have then is two possibilities of final compositions A-B and C-B and a whole new possibility for nutrient ratios by combining A-B-C. What is done most of the time is that A-B becomes an ideal formulation for vegetative growth while C-B is an ideal formulation for fruiting. When you start to grow you generally do so with A-B and then you move towards C-B by increasing C and decreasing A as reservoir changes happen.

In my program this sort of solution scheme is easily achieved. What you need to do is simply to have two desired formulations, one for ideal growth and one for ideal flowering and then you just need to make two sets of A and B calculations where B is shared amongst the two. To do this we will first load the general_growth_soluble.txt and general_fruit_soluble.txt desired formulations as indicated on the tutorial for the preparation of A and B formulations (you can download them here and here). After loading the general_growth_soluble.txt composition you should have the formulation composition displayed below.
––
Then follow the same procedure outlined on the “A and B solution tutorial” to arrive to the salt-weight compositions of the A and B formulations (save the results using the “save results” button) . Now load the general_fruit_soluble.txt formulation and repeat the calculation, also saving your results. A summary of the results of both calculations is shown in the image presented below. You will notice that both calculations share the same weights for the B solution (meaning they use the same B solution) while the composition of the A solution changes. What you have now is a basic three part formulation. You could now think about a regime to change from an A-B growth solution to the C-B fruiting solution in the amount it takes your plants to bear fruit.
–
–
For example, if your plants took aproximately 5 reservoir changes you would then use different quantities of A and C to go from a 100% A feed to a 100% C feed during that time. A timeline if it takes your plants 5 reservoir changes to get to fruiting is shown below. Note how in the beginning we use 10mL of A per liter and then in the end we use 10mL of C per liter, meaning that we have done a full gradual change from a growth to a fruiting formulation.
–
–
As you see from the above, you can easily use my hydroponic calculator to prepare your own three part concentrated nutrient blends which you can use to build your own nutrient schedule to go from vegeative growth to fruiting. However if you are currently using a fixed composition of a three part commercial nutrient blend then you can easily prepare an A and B solution to replace it, three part nutrients are ONLY needed when you want to do a varying schedule like the one introduced above, using three part nutrients without doing this is simply an overcomplication since a fixed composition can be prepared using just two custom concentrated solutions.

The default way in which solutions are prepared using my hydroponic nutrient calculator involves the direct addition of some component in your nutrient reservoir plus the preparation of some micro nutrient and iron concentrated solutions from which 10 and 100mL are added per batch. This way of preparing solutions is especifically suitable for people with large reservoirs and commercial hydroponic growers since when reservoir levels go above 4 cubic meters all nutrients can be added directly to the reservoir, saving the time and cost of preparating any concentrated solutions. The approach is also good for people with small reservoirs since you can prepare the micro and iron concentrated solutions, dissolve other salts directly and in the end you will have a very accurate amount of micro and macro nutrients prepared with your own custom formulation. However upon the request of several people I implemented an approach that allows people to prepare traditional formulations using an A+B concentrated nutrient solution approach in which two concentrated solutions at a 1:100 ratio are prepared and then simply diluted to prepare the final hydroponic reservoir’s contents. On today’s post I will discuss this approach and how you can use it if you have the appropiate nutrient salts. Please download my hydroponic nutrient calculator here to follow this tutorial.

Before we go into the main aspects of the preparation of concentrated solutions we must first understand the incompatibilities that are present within concentrated solutions that restrict the salts that can be used. The program checks for these incompatibilities automatically when using any of the saved salts and for this reason custom salts cannot be used for the A and B custom preparation. The main incompatibilities are shown on the image below. Mainly what we want to ensure is that certain ion pairs that would precipitate insoluble salts are never present together. For this we should avoid putting calcium and sulfate ions together as well as calcium and phosphate species and iron and phosphate species.
––
What we have left is the layout shown below that describes the general distribution of ions relevant to solubility of an A and B hydroponics formulation makeup. As you see what we achieve by dividing the concentrated solution into two is to keep away the ions that would precipiate when put together. This of course also restricts our ability to use iron sulfate and a different source of iron, either a chelate (FeEDTA, FeDPTA, etc) or iron nitrate must be used. It also restricts our sources of Calcium to calcium nitrate and therefore our sources of phosphate and sulfate are reduced to potassium salts.
––
Now let us use our basil_soluble.txt example to calculate the composition of the given A and B solutions needed for this formulation. Unzip the calculator and txt files to any given directory and input basil_soluble.txt under the field next to the “add external” button in the “Desired Formulations” tab, then click the “add external” and “Load Formulations” buttons and select the basil_soluble.txt formulation from the drop down menu. The end result of this process is shown on the image below. Also make sure you check the “Concentrated A and B” option so that the program calculates the results for these solutions instead of the regular method.
––
After doing this go to the “Nutrient Salts Used” tab and uncheck Calcium Monobasic Phosphate and Iron Sulfate and check Iron EDTA, Potassium Sulfate and Potassium Monobasic Phosphate. Now go back to the “Desired Formulations” tab and click the “Calculate Formula!” button. The program will now calculate the volume of A and B solutions you should prepare so that it will last for 10 reservoir changes of the volume you have input under the “Desired Formulations” tab. So for this case in which we left the input as 100L the final concentrated solution volume is 10L since it will last for 10 changes of the 100L nutrient reservoir, adding 1L per reservoir change. It should also be clear that the concentration ratio of 1:100 cannot be increased due to solubility limitations of salts. The results of the calculation are shown below.
–
–
Hopefully with this tutorial you will be able to prepare any A and B solution for any final formulation you would like. It is also clear that this approach has less flexibility than the “default” since it restricts the character and distribution of the salts used, making the use of very cheap fertilizers like calcium monobasic phosphate effectively impossible. However it also provides an “easy way” to make reservoir changes since concentrated A and B solutions only need to be prepared once every 10 times this happens. So it is clear that both approaches have their advantages and with the help of my calculator you’ll be able to choose whichever approach fits you best :o)

On the last part of this tutorial series I talked about how you could use my hydroponic nutrient calculator to figure out the ppm values of a commercial fertilizer. Today I am going to talk about how you can achieve a given ppm formulation using a commercial preparation figuring out what additional salts you would need to arrive at an adequate composition. I am also going to show how you can figure out the final concentrations of nutrients when using combined commercial fertilizers and salts and how this approach can be used to arrive at full, accurate and complete formulations for your hydroponic reservoir. In the end you will see how my hydroponic calculator (hydroponic buddy) is a great tool for the preparation of your hydroponic nutrients even if you rely solely on commercial formulations. You will need my hydroponic nutrient calculator to follow this tutorial, you can download it here.

Today we are going to use a few commercial fertilizers from General Hydroponics and Advanced Nutrients as well as a hydroponic formula to grow tomatoes. The formula – applied for tomato growth in Florida for the first cluster growth stage – can be found here. We are going to use the FloraBloom and FloraMicro nutrients from General Hydroponics (labels here and here) . As with yesterday’s tutorial the first thing we are going to do is add all the custom fertilizers within the “Nutrients Salts Used” tab by using the “Add New Salt” button by entering the composition percentages found on the label and composition pages of the above mentioned fertilizers. After doing this we input the desired tomato formulation under the “Desired Formulation” tab like it is shown below.
––
Once we have the formulation we select the custom fertilizers, uncheck all other salts and input a volume of 100 liters. After doing this we press the “Calculate Formula !” button which produces hte results shown below. The software also warns us about errors so we need to go to the “Warnings and Errors” tab where we see that certain nutrients are missing from the formulation. In particular we see that we are missing Zn. B and Cu. You will notice that many combinations of hydroponic fertilizers miss one or several essential nutrients for plant growth (even micro-grow-bloom combinations often miss B, Zn and Cu).
––
So right now we need to add sources of these elements to have an adequate formulation. Go to the “Nutrient Salts Used” tab and select Zinc Sulfate, Boric Acid and copper sulfate and press the “Calculate Formula !” button again. This now produces the results shown below where all elements are present and the program tells us to prepare an additional 1L concentrated solution of Zinc Sulfate, Copper Sulfate and Boric Acid.
––
However we see now that the formula is not very well balanced since we have a 100% excess of N and a defect in S so to achieve the desired composition it might be necessary to tweak the results slightly in a manual fashion and use some additional salts like Calcium Nitrate. To do this tweaking you should input the weight values obtained on the “Mass” boxes next to each salt’s name (the mass of Zn, Cu and B salts is the mass of the concentrated solutions divided by 100 since the 1L concentrated solutions are prepared with a 1:100 dilution factor taken into account). The input and the results of the “salts to formulation” calculation are shown below.
––
Now we need to increase S and decrease N. To decrease N we need to reduce the amount of the most important Nitrogen source (FloraMicro) to about half. Since this reduces the amount of Ca significantly we can now add calcium sulfate to the formulation to make up our now acquired Ca and S deficiencies. Select calcium sulfate and give it a value of 15g. After doing this you will notice that Ca and S concentrations will be much closer to the desired end values given by the original formulations. The final result is shown below. Eventhough the amount of nutrients are not absolutely the same as the ones on the formulation we were able to achieve the same “global ratios” for all important nutrient levels and the solution will now contain ALL the necessary nutrients for adequare plant growth and – in this case – especially for the first cluster development of tomato plants.
––
I hope that this tutorial allows you to understand better how my hydroponic nutrient calculator can be used for the preparation of a wide array of formulas and the correction of commercial nutrient fertilizers that lack some essential nutrients for plant growth. It also shows you how you can modify the results of the automatic calculator to further correct a formula if you believe that better results and pairings can be achieved. As you see, the calculator gives you tremendous flexibility and makes the preparation of hydroponics nutrients with precise ppm nutrient values a simple exercise.

One of the main reasons why I wanted to develop a nutrient calculator for hydroponics was to allow people to understand the amount of nutrients they are adding to their solutions and to use the calculated amounts to either use common salts to achieve the same nutrient percentages or to understand which salts are needed to adequately compliment the nutrition achieved by their hydroponic nutrients. On these posts I intend to show you how you can use my hydroponic nutrient calculator with your commercial hydroponic nutrient composition, figure out the amount of nutrients given by a certain amount of the fertilizer, adapt your fertilizer to a given formulation you want, supplement your nutrient with other salts and get a similar composition yourself with easily available salts (which are used to make your hydroponic nutrients most of the time). For this tutorial you will need my hydroponic nutrient calculator available here.

First of all, lets learn how to add a given nutrient commercial fertilizer to your list of hydroponic salts/nutrients. After you open the program go to the “Nutrient Salts Used” tab and select the “Add New Salt” button. A screen will pop up in which you can input the percentage composition values of your fertilizer. As an example, let us use the FloraBloom fertilizer from general hydroponics and add it to our fertilizer list. The fertilizer composition given on the product’s label is available here. Below you can see an image of the added percentages on my nutrient calculator, note that the K2O, P2O5 check box is used as the percentage values on the label are given as oxides for K and P. After finishing the addition the “GH – FloraBloom” item becomes available in the bottom of the page.
–
–
We are now going to calculate the ppm values for the different nutrients we would get for the recommended addition of 1 tbsp/gallon for regular growth. Since 1 tbsp is 15 mL and we assume the fertilizer density to be 1 g/mL we get an addition of about 15g per gallon of solution. We input 15 in the field next to the fertilizer name, leave the purity at 100% and go to the “Salt to Formulation” tab where we input a volume of 1 gallon. We then get the results shown below. You can see that this preparation would give us around 87 ppm of P, around 131 ppm of K, 60 ppm of Mg and 40 ppm of S. Now that you know how to get these values it becomes easy for you to know the amount of nutrients you are getting for a given amount of any commercial fertilizer simply by using the composition values available on the label.
–
–
Getting these values is only the first and easiest thing we can do with commercial fertilizers using my calculator but you will see within the next few tutorials that much more powerful things are possible. Right now you can also get the ppm values of different mixes of commercial fertilizers as well as current ppm values you are getting with any custom regime you are using. For example you could upload the whole General Hydroponics series to the calculator and see the different ratios you can achieve with different proportions of their products.

On the next tutorial we are going to use the above mentioned fertilizer as well as a predetermined formula to determine which salts are needed to compliment the above solution and obtain a well-balanced custom formulation. After that we are going to see how we can use the above obtained ppm values to makeup our own copy of this fertilizer as well as how we can improve it. I hope you are enjoying my free hydroponic calculator and that you leave any comments you may have :o)

A few days after the release of my hydroponic calculator free software implementation I can tell you that I am absolutely happy with the results. The calculator had some resolution problems at first but these problems where easily fixed. After changing to a tabbed interface and by including the ability to save and load nutrient recipes I think that the calculator is on its way to become one of the most important tools for serious hydroponic hobbyists and small business owners. Right now the calculator allows you to get precise weights of different nutrients to prepare your own hydroponics solutions something which no other free software available online does. This allows people to save great amounts of money and achieve very good results around their hydroponic crops, at least when dealing with nutrients. However I believe that there is still a lot to do and for this reason I will be writing today’s post about my ideas for the calculator and it will also be great to know what you have in mind :o)

There are several things I want my calculator to be able to do in the future but first of all my focus will be on everything dealing with hydroponic nutrients. The first important additions I am working on mainly deal with the ability to add custom salts to the program and obtain results of ppm concentrations achieved by placing certain amounts of salts within the solutions. Certainly being able to go from a given weight of salt or commercial fertilizer (with known percentage element compositions) to a ppm concentration will allow people to know how adequate their recipe is and – moreover- it will allow people to play with different levels of salts if they feel that the currently “automatic” salt quantity selection is not doing the best possible job. It will also allow people to “reverse engineer” their commercial hydroponic solutions by figuring out their ppm contributions, later using those on the nutrient design tab to obtain salt weights to arrive to those concentrations. By using different sources people will also be able to pinpoint with good accuracy the nutrient sources used by their favorite commercial blend.

The next big feature I am looking forward to add is a “water quality” section which will help people adjust their nutrient solution to their water quality parameters. Things such as hardness, carbonate levels, magnesium, calcium, pH, EC, nitrogen and QOD (chemical oxygen demand) might be important parameters I will take into consideration within this section. A pH and EC prediction module – which is almost finished – will help people calculate an estimate of what their final solution properties for a given formulation might be.

Even though these features are bound to add great flexibility to my calculator, I believe that right now this is only the “tip of the Iceberg” of the potential the software has. After doing this I will attempt to put all my chemical knowledge regarding hydroponics crops into practice by inputting “optional additions” that people will be able to choose when preparing their formulations. For example, you might want to choose the “hydrogen peroxide regime” option and a summary giving you usage instructions as well as detailed explanations of how much peroxide to add and when to your reservoir will be shown. Similar options ranging from “potassium silicate treatment” to “cobalt supplementation” might become available as the calculator progresses.

As you see, there is a lot in storage for this little calculator program which I am hoping to rename to something like “hydroponic buddy” once version 1.0 comes out. Right now I am working on all the features and relearning a lot of Delphi programming which I honestly haven’t done extensively for almost 10 years. Do you have any suggestions for my hydroponic nutrient calculator ? Do you have any suggestions about what you would want to do with it ? Please leave any comments, questions or suggestions below ! By the way, you can get the latest version of the calculator here.

You will often hear in the world of hydroponic growing that Light emitting diode (LED) lights simply do not work as well as the traditional HPS (high pressure sodium) or Tungsten Halide lamps when growing large plants. The truth is that this belief is centered around the fact that most of the commercially available LED fixtures are built with low-power cascade LEDs that simply do not give your plants enough light intensity to grow properly. The fact that people do not know how to distinguish one from the other, coupled with the problems of getting a genuine, high power LED lamp makes the use of LED fixtures in hydroponics limited and almost never considered a serious option for modern growers. On today’s post I want to talk a little bit about how you can build your OWN high power LED lamp and how this way you can get a cheap, low-energy, highly-efficient device to make your plants grow.

The first thing you need to consider here is the amount of LEDs you will be using (the amount you will require for your plants) and the power supply you will need to feed those little hungry fellows. From my experience I can tell you that the lumens measurement of high power LEDs does not give you an accurate estimation of how many you need since LEDs have a highly centered light spectrum that is more accurately measure in micro Einsteins (the appropiate measurement unit for these devices). In this case I advice an empirical measurement of 5, 3W high power LEDs for each plant you wish to grow and 1 blue LED for every 10 red LEDs. (below you can see a picture of one of my LEDs, the LED was dimmed to get a better picture)
––
The second thing you want to do is buy the LEDs, just google red or blue 3W high power LED on ebay and you will find several chinese or US providers who will sell you these great artifacts for a small price. When you get your LEDs make sure you buy at least 3-5 more than what you will need since these LEDs are sensitive and they will burn easily if you wire them incorrectly. Since the power requirements of these LEDs are also pretty high they will get VERY hot (however much cooler than traditional lamps) and they will need to be mounted on aluminimum rails with at least one 6 inch fan for each 5 LEDs (or a BIG rail than can dissipate all the heat).

The next part – which is the most difficult – is the building of the power supply and voltage regulator side of the device. You can use a laptop supply to power up some LEDs but you need to calculate their power requirements so that you know how many you can power up for the power supply you will be using. A very good guide I used to create my LED assembly can be found here. Of course you should change the setup and LED number to fit your needs but the tutorial shows you exactly how you can choose the power supply, calculate LED needs and build the voltage regulator with a simple electronic circuit.
––
Finally, after I finished I hooked the power supply of my LEDs to a regular appliance timer which sets them on and off at certain times of the day. Making sure that my basil plants get enough light for their growth even when I am not at home. It is very worth noting that before I installed this LED fixture my basil plants were extremely leggy, etiolated and just dying. A few days after the LEDs where in place they started to grow like crazy :o) Do you have any questions, comments or suggestions ? Have you also built your own LED fixture ? Leave a comment below !