On a recent post I talked about vapor pressure deficit and its importance in hydroponic culture. To adequately control VPD it’s necessary to accurately measure relative humidity and in order to do so it’s necessary to have adequately calibrated humidity sensors. Since most of today’s humidity sensors are digital this becomes even more important as these sensors can get damaged very easily, especially if the dew point is reached at any given point in time. Today I am going to talk about humidity sensor calibration, how it can be easily carried out and why you should do it in order to ensure that your humidity sensors are being accurate enough for your cultivation needs.

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Most modern digital humidity sensors are based on conductive polymers whose resistance changes with the amount of water in the air. If the polymer is in equilibrium with water vapor in the air then this change will be proportional to relative humidity. Sensors like those from the SHTX and DHTX series work using this principle. However if the polymer gets wet – water falls on the sensor or the dew point is reached – or if it faces very low humidity conditions for a long time then the humidity sensor will stop working correctly and it will need to be reconditioned and calibrated.

Reconditioning of these sensors is usually carried out by exposing the sensor to higher temperature dry conditions and then exposing the sensor to a controlled higher humidity lower temperature environment. These are some typical instructions for humidity sensor reconditioning. Once this process is carried out the sensor is now ready to be calibrated. Depending on the sensor you’re using you might be able to change some calibration parameters to adjust the sensor to changes in its response or you might just use the calibration procedure to check the sensor’s accuracy and discard it if it isn’t behaving properly.

Calibration of digital humidity sensors can be carried out by putting them in the atmosphere composition generated over a saturated solution of a given salt. This table shows the expected relative humidity values at different temperatures for different salts. Basically you want to use a glass container where you can prepare a solution that has so much salt that there are undissolved crystals within it and then place your sensor in a closed environment above this solution (without touching it!). You can achieve this by drilling a hole at the top of a container with a lid to place the sensor (like it’s showed here), alternatively you can stick the sensor with electrical tape inside a glass and then place it upside down in a small amount of solution. This last process – first image in this post – completely eliminates any issues caused by potential holes and the atmosphere reaches equilibrium a bit faster. Another potential option is to create a paste with water and salt and place this past with the sensor inside a zip lock bag.

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For starters you can perform a single measurement with a saturated sodium chloride solution – which should give you a humidity of around 75%. This is a good way to check if the sensor is working properly without the need to buy any additional materials. If you want you can then get some additional salts, like potassium chloride, magnesium nitrate and potassium nitrate, which should give you several different calibration points to draw an appropriate calibration curve to gauge how your sensor is working across the entire humidity range. Ideally you would want to have two salts with equilibrium points above 50% and two below 50% relative humidity.

If you have a hydroponic crop then you probably have to measure and monitor the pH and EC of your nutrient solutions. This means taking probes out of storage, ensuring they are calibrated and then carrying out measurements. This process can be very inconvenient, reason why growers might prefer to carry it out less often, even if this means they will have a lot less data. However there are several solutions that can enable constant monitoring of hydroponic nutrient solutions without the need to constantly take out, calibrate and then store away probes. Today we will talk about why regular probes are not suited for this and what types of probes are needed if you want to do this.

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Usually low quality EC/pH pens cannot be kept within nutrient solutions because they are not built to withstand constant contact with nutrient solutions. This is both due to the electrode composition – the actual glass or metal electrodes not being robust enough – and the actual junctions and other components not withstanding the nutrient solution as well. Although hydroponic nutrient solutions are not particularly harsh environments – with a slightly acidic pH and moderate ionic strengths – probes for constant monitoring of nutrient solutions must be designed with constant immersion in mind.

For constant monitoring of pH in nutrient solution tanks you want a proper submersible electrode assembly like this one. These electrodes are usually mounted on PVC fixtures and can be easily mounted on tanks to provide constant readings for the nutrient solution. The electrode comes with a standard BNC connector meaning that it is compatible with a wide variety of pH controllers. If you don’t want to mount it on the tank but you just want the electrode to be like a normal probe but constantly submerged then you can use something like this industrial probe which comes with a pH controller as well that can be used with any other probes you purchased and interfaces with an arduino or raspberry pi to get and store readings. For probes like this last one I usually wrap the entire outside body of the probe in electrical tape to give further strength to the probe/cable junction.

For conductivity readings you will want to go with electrode-less EC probes (like these ones) which over PVC mountings as well with the advantage that they do not suffer from polarization issues – like normal EC pens use – so they lose calibration much more rarely and can give much more accurate readings across a wide range of different solution types and conductivity values.

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For the grower who wants it all there are also probes like the Mark I-A probe which is a tank-mounted probe assembly that does EC, pH and ORP readings, all in one single fixture. This is incredibly practical since it is able to implement all the readings you need in one single fixture. The problem of course is that calibration of any reading requires you to remove all three sensors so this can be a bit inconvenient when you want to ensure that any of the readings are indeed accurate.

Of course submersible robust probes are more expensive but they are much more convenient. They get damaged much less frequently, require much less maintenance, provide constant readings and need to be calibrated only a few times a year. For example the industrial EC and pH probes I use in my home hydroponic setup have only required calibration once a year, even then the loss in calibration was only around 0.2 units for the pH sensor and 0.3 mS/cm for the EC one so I probably could have continued using the probes without calibrating them for 2 years without having to face any dramatic consequences. If you spend 300-400 USD on high quality robust probes you will probably have them for much longer, with far more accurate results along the way.