After discussing the different types of off-the-shelf sensors for measuring moisture in hydroponics (1,2,3), we are now going to explore the practical use of these sensors to time irrigations within a hydroponic crop. In this post, I’m going to share with you some of the key aspects of timing irrigations using moisture sensors as well as some useful resources I have found in the scientific literature that discuss this problem. We will mostly discuss sensor calibration, placement, and maintenance.

In principle, the use of sensors to perform irrigations sounds simple. Wait till the sensor tells you there is little water in the media, turn on irrigation, wait till the sensors says there is enough water, turn irrigation off and wait for the process to repeat. However, there are several issues that complicate the problem, which need to properly considered if you want to successfully use these sensors for irrigation. The first such issue is the “set point” of the irrigation – when a sensor triggers an irrigation event – and how we can determine this.

Ideally, the first thing you will do with a sensor is calibrate it for your particular media to ensure that you can equate a given sensor reading with a given moisture content. The procedure below describes how this is can be done:

1. Fill a container of known volume with drain holes with fully dry media without any plants.
2. Weigh this full container.
3. Insert the moisture sensor in it and take measurements till you have a stable reading. This will be the sensor set point.
4. Wet the media with nutrient solution until there is substantial run-off coming off the bottom.
5. Wait till the run-off stops.
6. Weigh the media and take one moisture sensor reading every 1-2 hours, recording the time of each reading, until the media goes back to within 10% of the value of the initial reading.

With this data you can plot a graph of sensor signal vs water content (measured weight – dry weight) that you can use to determine what different signals from the sensor correspond in terms of amounts of water within the media. You can translate that water weight into volumetric water content by calculating the volume of water from the weight and then diving that by the total volume of the media. You should in the end arrive to curves like the ones shown above, where you can use regression analysis to create a relationship between moisture content and the sensor signal.

With the sensors now calibrated you can now decide on a set point for the irrigation based on how much dry back you desire. The optimal point for this will depend on your VPD and your growing objectives – whether you want to save water, maximize yields, etc – but starting with irrigations at a 50% dry-back point is usually a good idea, if no other guidelines exist. Some plants species are not very sensitive to this point – see this paper on basil – provided that you allow for enough dry-back for adequate oxygenation of the root system. By allowing deeper dry-backs you can save on water, although this can be problematic if your irrigations are done with nutrient solutions of significantly high strength. The ratio of plant size to media volume will also play a role as larger plants in smaller containers will tolerate shallower dry-backs as the total amount of water in the media will be smaller.

When an irrigation event is triggered it is also worth considering for how long this event will happen. If you water only till the sensor gives you a high moisture content reading, then there will be very little run-off and nutrients will tend to accumulate in the media and imbalances will be created since nutrients that are not absorbed cannot be leached out. For this reason, irrigations are usually continued for several minutes after sensors reach their high moisture reading, in order to ensure that enough run-off is collected to avoid these problems.

Sensor placement is also going to be critical for irrigation timing since you want to ensure that all plants are properly watered. Since irrigation events will generally be triggered by a single sensor, it is up to the grower to decide whether the risk of under or over watering is more acceptable. If the risk of underwatering is considered more important, the sensor will usually be placed in the plant that is largest, has the location with the micro-climate with the highest VPD, and which receives the most light. This is going to be the plant with the highest water demand and most likely the first to need irrigation, if you irrigate whenever this plant needs water, then almost everything else will be at a point of higher moisture content. This can be a dangerous game though, especially if over-watering can be problematic. In these cases, it is usually better to have multiple sensors and irrigation zones and make decisions based on more complex control processes. You can read more about irrigation timing and irrigation in hydroponics in general here.

The last important point here is sensor maintenance. Assuming that moisture sensors will always work in the same way can be a recipe for disaster because these sensors can deteriorate due to a variety of reasons. Since they are exposed to high-salinity, wet environments, contacts can corrode, leads can break and salts can accumulate within sensor structures. For this reason, it is good practice to wash these sensors with distilled water with some frequency – usually I recommend at least once per month – and to recalibrate the sensors at least once per year. It is also good to keep a a couple of already calibrated sensors in reserve, such that these sensors can be deployed quickly if an irrigation sensor fails. To be safer, have irrigations controlled by measurements taken by two sensors in the same plant and be alerted if the measurements of these sensors diverge, this usually indicates that a sensor has deteriorated and needs to be changed.

I have recently written blog posts about the measurements of water content in media in hydroponics. The first one was about the problems with resistive moisture sensors in hydroponics and the second one showed you a low-cost capacitive sensor that does the job adequately. However, while capacitive sensors are significantly better at measuring moisture compared to resistive sensors, they are not the only type of reliable sensor that we can use to measure water content in hydroponics. In this post, I want to talk about tensiometers and how they can be used to measure water potential in hydroponics and soil. We will go a bit into how tensiometers work and why they are the most reliable sensors for irrigation timing.

Both capacitive and resistive sensors try to measure the amount of water in the media by measuring how the electrical properties of the media change when different amounts of water are present within it. However, plants do not care so much about how these electrical properties change but they care most about the effort that is required to move water from the media into the plant’s root system. The tensiometer is a sensor that is designed to measure the difficulty of this process. The device is built using a ceramic cup that is filled with degassed distilled water that a pressure gauge is attached to. When water is not present outside the tensiometer, the water inside of it will face a pressure to go out – causing the pressure gauge in the tensiometer to sense a vacuum – as water is added to the media, this pressure is reduced.

The above is very similar to what plants actually experience. When the media is wet, the plant has an easier time taking water into its root system, when the media is dry, the plant needs to fight in order to keep water inside of its roots from flowing into the media. Since this process mimics what the plants actually care about, it accounts for a lot of variables that can directly affect this pressure, such as the osmotic pressure of the solution and the chemical composition of the media. While resistive sensors are harshly affected by these variables and capacitive sensors are to a large extent insensitive to them, tensiometers account for them in a way more similar to how plants do.

Although tensiometers can be analogue – as shown in the first image in this post – there have been great strides in the creation of digital tensiometers that you can use to monitor your crops. The company Netafim (who did not sponsor this post and does not have any affiliation with me) provides digital tensiometers that send measurements to a central hub with data logging capabilities. Although they have been created mostly for soil, they can also be used in hydroponics to directly monitor the moisture content – or perhaps more accurately the “drying pressure” – of the media. You can also find tensiometers at irrometer.com (who did not sponsor this post and do not have any affiliation with me) where you can get both analogue and digital sensors that you can use within your custom setups, including Arduino builds. In a future post I will show you how to build such a monitoring setup. Please note that the Watermark sensor they sell is not a traditional tensiometer, it is a type of resistive sensor that also uses a ceramic membrane, a sort of “hybrid”.

Note that tensiometers are not perfect sensors, they come with a substantial set of problems. The first is that they are going to be sensitive to salt buildup because of how water flows in and out of the tensiometers, if salt accumulates in the pores of the tensiometer’s ceramic cup, it will lose its ability to properly sense the water potential of the media. This can be especially problematic if significantly hard to dissolve salts accumulate within the irrometer’s structure. The second most common issue with them is their slow response, tensiometers by their very nature rely on reaching a steady state within a process that is significantly slow – water flow across a ceramic – so they will tend to respond slowly to changes in the water content of the media, as the process reaches this state.

All-in-all, if you want the absolutely best way to time irrigations of our media in hydroponics, then a tensiometer that is placed right at the root ball level of your plants will offer the best results for this, especially if you’re using significant volumes of media. Tensiometers/irrometers cannot be beat when it comes to timing the watering of plants in coco or peatmoss, while they can struggle with media that are smaller, like rockwool, due to the volume that the tensiometer itself has.

If you want high yields in hydroponics, then you need to monitor moisture quite closely. Watering plants when they need it – and not on a timer – is critical if you want to maintain ideal water and nutrient transport within your plants. As I’ve discussed in a previous post, most of the cheap sensors available for this are inadequate as they are affected by the salts present in hydroponics and do not offer proper sensing of the amount of moisture in hydroponics media. Although there are a lot of different sensors that do offer adequate measurements – which we will be discussing in future posts – these are usually not easy to use and often require custom electronics, powering and sometimes complicated calibration. In this post we are going to discuss the easiest solution if you want to have adequate moisture monitoring within your crop with least possible hassle. The chirp sensor. Note that this post has not been sponsored by Chirp’s creator or anyone else.

The Chirp sensors were created a couple of years back. They are available for purchase here. The sensors use a capacitive measuring principle, which means that the sensor detects moisture by a change in the capacitance of the media in the presence of water, rather than by a change of electrical resistance, and, therefore, the sensor is not strongly affected by the salts present in hydroponics. Additionally, the sensor plates are not corroded by the flow of current between the electrodes. The plates of the sensor are actually covered in an insulating material, giving the sensor the ability to last for a long time. The big advantage of the Chirp alarm sensor is also how easy it is to set up and how useful it can be to growers.

In order to set up the sensor, you will need to put it in the media at the point where the media will require watering, you then wait a couple of minutes for the sensor reading to stabilize and you will then press the button at the top of the sensor in order to indicate that this is the threshold for moisture where the sensor will start “chirping”. Whenever the sensor reaches this reading again it will start chirping, chirping louder and more frequently as the moisture level drops below this point. It will also only do so when it detects light, so it will not detect the need for watering when the lights are out. When it chirps, you water, that’s it.

If you want to figure out when to set up the sensor for watering, you can set up a pot with media (with no plants), water it till there is consistent run-off, wait for the run-off to stop, weight it – this will be the saturated weight – then weight it again every hour to quantitatively measure the dry-back of the media. You can then set up the chirp sensor when 60-70% of the water weight has been lost, which indicates a condition where watering is going to be necessary. This measurement can then be used for the watering of your plants, deeper or shallower dry-backs might be optimal depending on your conditions, but the above is a good starting point where you will not risk overwatering your plants.

The advantage of the Chirp sensor is that all of this can be done without any fancy setup, so it can be as good for watering a single plant as it could be for an entire greenhouse if enough Chirp sensors are used. Additionally, the Chirp sensors are also i2C compatible, so if you buy Chirp alarm sensors to perform this sort of monitoring you will still be able to hook them up to Arduinos or other microcontrollers in the future in order to perform your own quantitative moisture measurements and automate the entire watering cycle. If you’re looking for a low-cost, reliable yet expandable plug-and-play solution for moisture monitoring then the Chirp sensor is the way to go.

The measuring of media moisture, also known as water-content, is critical to successfully irrigating crops in hydroponics. Badly timed irrigations cause lots of the problems faced by novice and even some large scale hydroponic growers. Trying to time irrigations at regular intervals often leads to failure because of how the water demand of a plant changes with size and environmental conditions. It is therefore critical to use a quantitative input that truly represents the amount of water in the media in order to decide whether to water or not. Sadly, the most common method to do this is through the use of resistive moisture sensors; a type of sensor that is ill-fitted for this task in hydroponics. Through this post, I will talk about how resistive sensors work, how you can identify them and why you should never use them to measure water content in your hydroponic crop.

In order to measure the amount of water in media, we need to measure a property of the media that changes in proportion to how wet it is. One of the simplest approaches to this is to put two electrodes inside the media and measure the amount of resistance to the flow of electricity between these electrodes. This exploits the difference in conductivity between water and air. When the media is wet the electrodes will experience more current flow between them. On the other hand, when the media is dry, there will be more air and, therefore, less current flowing between the electrodes. This type of sensor, where we assume that the current flow between two electrodes at a fixed potential is proportional to the amount of moisture in the soil, is what we call a resistivity moisture sensor.

There are several problems with these measurements, especially in hydroponics. The most important is that hydroponic nutrient solutions are significantly more conductive than tap water and therefore the amount of current that flows through the electrodes of the sensor will be much larger than the amount the electrodes were designed for. Since current is flowing, chemical reactions will also happen at the electrodes, corroding them and changing the measurement of resistance with time as corroded electrodes become less conductive. Due to this fact, electrode performance will deteriorate with time and the electrodes will often become useless.

Some manufacturers will try to reduce the above issue by creating electrodes using less easily corroded materials, such as stainless steel, and using AC instead of DC to measure resistivity. This might partially solve the issue of the electrodes being damaged with time but another issue arises; the conductivity of the solution is generally not constant with time as the amount of salts within the media changes. Imagine you start watering a crop with a solution that has a conductivity of 2.1mS/cm, you will then determine the measurement that corresponds to this value in the resistive sensor as “wet” but as you continue feeding salts might accumulate in the media and the conductivity in the root zone might actually be 3.0mS/cm when watering. This means that the “wet” measurement of the sensor is now greatly below the expected conductivity and therefore the sensor will fail to correctly tell you how much water there is in the media.

While resistive sensors might be able to tell between fully dry or fully wet conditions in their first use, this ability will deteriorate with time as the conductivity of the media changes or the electrodes deteriorate. Since in hydroponics we often rely on the accurate measurement of pretty specific dry back conditions in order to properly water plants, having a sensor that lacks a good degree of granularity in measuring water content is not acceptable. For this reason you should avoid sensors that use resistivity as their way to tell how much moisture there is in your media.

Thankfully telling whether a water-content sensor is a resistivity-based sensor is pretty easy. Almost all resistive sensors will contain metallic legs that are used to penetrate the media, so any sensor that uses metallic prongs like the ones showed in the two electrode examples above is most likely a sensor that uses electrical resistance to measure water-content. Sensors like this should always be avoided.

Which sensors should you use then? Within the next several posts I will be going deeper into other types of moisture sensors. I will describe other ways to measure moisture content that are better suited for hydroponics and give you some links to sensors you can get to carry out this task successfully.

Passive hydroponic growing has become very popular during the past 10 years as it has a very low starting cost and uses no electricity. However, growing without active nutrient circulation, aeration and solution monitoring can cause significant problems, many of which can lead to crop failure. In this post I want to give you five tips that should help you with your passive growing experience and should allow you to go through your first Kratky crop with hopefully less problems.

1. It’s all about height and volume per plant. In a Kratky system, successfully growing plants requires the level of the solution to go down with time to allow the roots to develop structures to obtain oxygen from the air as the solution level drops. Have too much volume per plant and this does not happen quickly enough and the plant dies from water logging, have too little volume and the solution goes down too fast and the plant dies. The exact volume per plant and container dimensions depend on the environmental conditions – which determine the plant’s demand for water – but some rules of thumb have been established. For your first experience, a 4 liter bottle can be used to successfully grow a head of lettuce through its entire lifetime. You can check this and more suggestions for more complex setups in Kratky’s 2008 paper.

2. Be careful about the starting level. Another critical issue for a Kratky system is to make sure that the water level just barely touches the bottom of the receptacle where the seedling is placed or germinated. If the pot where the seedling resides is soaked with nutrient solution then the roots will never have access to enough oxygen and the seedlings will die. It is fundamental to allow the media where the plant is placed to wick water but to allow enough air space for the seedling at this stage.

3. Start with a lower nutrient dosage. Since the passive system will concentrate the nutrient solution as a function of time, the strength of the nutrients will go up a lot which will fit nicely with the ability of the plant to deal with more concentrated solutions. Starting with a nutrient solution that is too strong can cause the solution to become unbearable for the plant as the solution becomes more and more concentrated. This is why it is necessary to start at a lower strength. In general, starting with a solution with an EC of around 0.6-0.8mS/cm is good since the solution will become around 4-5 times more concentrated by the end of the growth cycle.

4. Starting at a lower pH can be better. Plants like lettuce will generally want to try to increase the pH of a solution as a function of time, as they will absorb nitrates more aggressively, causing the nutrient solution to become more and more basic. Lettuce can be grown at lower pH levels with fewer problems than at higher pH levels, reason why it can be beneficial to start the solution at a pH of 4.5-5.0 so that it can increase gradually and reach 7-7.5 by the end of the growing cycle.

5. Disinfect the water before preparing nutrients. The Kratky method is very vulnerable to plant pathogens due to the fact that the solution remains unchanged through the entire growing period. If the solution contains any bacteria or fungal spores, these can prosper aggressively within the growing cycle. If you’re aiming for a purely hydroponic experience with no bacteria or fungal content, you can alleviate this problem by disinfecting the solution before preparing your nutrients. This can be done by adding a couple of drops of household bleach per liter – allowing the solution to rest for a day after that before preparing nutrients – or by running the water through a UV treatment. Inline UV treatment filters for aquariums are cheaply available online, you only need to pass the solution through them once. Boiling the water is not something I would recommend, as this also removes all the dissolved oxygen from it, which can be hard to recover without a lot of aeration, which can reintroduce pathogens into the water.

There are many more things to consider to run a successful Kratky setup but I hope the above tips do help you avoid some common pitfalls and establish your first completely passive, hydroponic growing method. All the above mentioned issues can get substantially harder when growing larger plants, so starting with smaller plants that are easier to handle – such as lettuce – is always a sure way to increase your chances of success.

The achievement of adequate ion concentrations in nutrient solutions, media and plant tissue is key to success in hydroponics. It is therefore important to measure them, so that proper values can be maintained. Up until now, this has been mostly achieved with the use of external lab testing but electrochemical developments made during the past 10 years have made the production of ion selective electrodes with high enough selectivity coefficients viable at a large scale. This means that it is now possible to obtain sensors that yield accurate enough measurements of nitrate, potassium and calcium concentrations, which allows for routine monitoring of these values without having to worry too much about complicated electrode calibration that accounts for selectivity issues. In today’s article I am going to be talking about these electrodes and how they can be used in hydroponic crops.

An ion selective electrode is an electrochemical device that is sensitive to the concentration of a single ion in solution. This is commonly achieved by coating an electrode with a molecule that can uniquely accommodate that ion, so that the potential measured across that electrode and a reference electrode will change proportionally to the concentration of that ion. A pH electrode achieves this effect with glass – a pH electrode is basically an H₃O⁺ ion selective electrode – while to sense other ions the use of other molecules is required. For example Valinomycin – a molecule originally developed as an anti-biotic – is able to accommodate K⁺ ions very selectively, reason why an electrode coated with a Valinomycin containing membrane will be sensitive to changes in K⁺ concentration.

The issue with using these electrodes in hydroponics has always been two fold. First, the electrodes were commonly very expensive (thousands of dollars per electrode) and second, the selectivity of the electrodes was limited enough that the concentrations of other ions in hydroponic solutions caused substantial interference. This meant that accurate use in hydroponics required someone with analytical chemistry training that would calibrate the electrodes to variations in a single ion against a more complicated ionic background, a process which greatly limited the applicability of the technology. However, companies like Horiba have now developed electrodes that overcome both of these issues, with electrodes that have high selectivity coupled with very attractive prices. You can see Horiba’s ion selective electrodes for potassium, calcium and nitrate in the links below. These electrodes are very simple to use and come with solutions to perform 2 point calibrations which are good enough given their high selectivity.

Note that Horiba is not sponsoring this content, but the links below are amazon affiliate links that will help support this blog at no extra cost to you, if you decide to purchase them.

• Potassium selective electrode
• Nitrate selective electrode
• Calcium selective electrode

Are these electrodes good enough for hydroponics? The answer is, yes! This independent Spanish research thesis looked at the use of two different brands of ion selective electrode for the determination of potassium, calcium and nitrate in hydroponic solutions. Their results show that the Horiba probes achieve good accuracy in the determination of all of these ions, correlating very well with lab measurements of the same nutrient solutions. With these probes you can therefore monitor the concentrations of K, Ca and N as nitrate as a function of time, giving you substantial information about the accuracy of your solution preparations and – probably most importantly in the case of Ca – information about how your water supply calcium content is changing through time, which can be very important if you’re using tap water to prepare your hydroponic solutions. The determinations are instantaneous, which gives you the ability to quickly react, without the need to wait for a long time for lab analysis to come back.

Another very interesting use of these ion selective electrodes is for the monitoring of plant sap to measure nutrient concentrations in tissue. This can be achieved by collecting petiole tissue from mature leaves to perform an extraction – using a garlic press – which then generates sap that can be measured directly using the electrodes. This gives you the ability to perform a lot of tissue measurements, allowing you not only to look at nutrient concentrations of a single plant, but to monitor tissue concentrations from different plants or even different zones in the same plant. You can obtain results from the analysis right away, which allows for much quicker actions to be taken if required. Horiba shows some examples of how this sap analysis can be carried out here.

Although the information given by the above electrodes is not perfect, it has the advantage of being instantaneous and known to correlate very well with lab results measured using ICP. The ability to carry out 10x more analysis and to monitor these three ions way more closely in tissue, nutrient solutions, run-off, foliar sprays, etc, opens up a lot of ways to improve crop nutrition and to see problems coming way before they become major issues. Imagine being able to monitor the K, Ca and nitrate concentration in your solutions and plant tissue daily, instead of once a week, month or even sometimes even only once per crop cycle, for a fraction of the cost.

The most common problem I get contacted for by hydroponic lettuce growers is the appearance of inner leaf tipburn within their plants. During the past 10 years I have consulted for dozens of growers and helped many of them solve this issue. There can be multiple causes for the problem but a careful evaluation of the crop can often lead to a viable solution. In today’s article I am going to talk about the main reasons why inner leaf tipburn is such a big problem with hydroponic lettuce, what can cause it and how it can be fixed.

What is this leaf tipburn issue? It appears as lettuce heads become adult plants, the tips of the inner lettuce leaves die off. This happens because of a lack of enough calcium at the edges of the leaves, which causes the rapidly growing tissue at the center of the lettuce head to start dying of. This does not happen at the outer leaves of the plant because these leaves get much more efficient nutrient transport, while the inner leaves receive a much more limited amount of calcium. In most hydroponic cases this is actually not related at all with a lack of calcium in the nutrient solution, but with the transport of the Calcium from the solution to the leaves. It is often the case in hydroponic crops that conditions are so favorable for fast growth that the leaves of the plant grow too fast and Calcium transport just cannot keep up (5, 6).

Due to the above it is common for measures that help with Ca absorption to also help with the elimination of this tipburn phenomenon. An effective change in the nutrient solution is to reduce the K:Ca ratio if this ratio is significantly high. Going from a solution that has a high ratio (say 3:1) to a solution with a ratio closer to 1.25:1 can heavily reduce tip burn by reducing the competition of K with Ca and facilitating Ca transport. Making it easier for the plant to move nutrients by reducing the EC of the solution can often lead to improvements in this issue, this is both because lower EC values reduce overall nutrient absorption, making growth slower, therefore enabling the Ca to be absorbed to meet the needs of the plant. You can see experimental evidence for the two suggestions above in (1). This is why lettuce formulated nutrients will generally have K:Ca ratios close to 1.25:1 and why the EC values recommended are usually in the 1-2mS/cm range, even though higher EC levels can indeed be more productive in terms of mass produced per day.

Since tipburn is related to how fast plants are grown, it is usually effective to reduce the light intensity in order to alleviate the tipburn problem (2). While growing lettuce at higher PPFD values can generate larger amounts of dry weight per day, it also correlates with a significantly larger amount of tipburn within the crop, precisely because growth is more aggressive. This, in combination with the fact that warmer temperatures further increase growth speed, is an important reason why there is significantly higher incidence of leaf tipburn in lettuce for crops that are produced during the spring/summer (3).

Environmental modifications to increase Ca transport can also be quite successful at helping prevent leaf tipburn, these can be particularly important when the desire to maximize yields as a function of time is fundamental (for example when growing lettuce in space). Constantly blowing air directly into the inner leaves of lettuce plants has been shown to effectively prevent the tipburn issue, as the constant stream of air increases nutrient transport to the lower leaves, by increasing evaporation and replenishing carbon dioxide (3,4). Note that these experiments are usually done in enriched CO₂ environments, which is a modification that also helps with the issue.

One of the most practical approaches for the control and prevention of tip burn is also the application of calcium foliar sprays, with one of the most effective treatments – as it is also the case for many different crops – being the use of Calcium chloride (7). Treatments of crops twice a week with 400-800 ppm of Ca from calcium chloride can be quite effective in controlling tip burn with minimal decrease in yields. Additionally, calcium chloride can also be effective in the prevention of fungal disease which makes this proposition even more interesting. However, the use of foliar sprays like these requires a careful evaluation of the environmental conditions, as they can cause other problems if they are applied incorrectly.

In my experience, the correction of tip burn should start with an evaluation of the nutrient solution, to evaluate if enough calcium is present in solution, if the ratios of Ca to other cations, such as Mg, K and Na is correct and if salinity due to carbonates, Na, Cl or other such ions is too high. The EC can then be evaluated to determine whether it needs to be decreased to modify the growth rate and help alleviate the issue. Once the nutrient solution aspects are considered, the environmental conditions should be carefully evaluated to determine if changes to either temperature, relative humidity, air circulation, carbon dioxide concentration or light intensity are possible and if so, if they would be helpful. If the environmental conditions allow it, a foliar spray can also be formulated to supplement calcium to the crop using a highly available calcium salt – like Ca chloride – which should also help with the transport of Ca to leaf tissue.

Few bio-stimulants are more popularly used than seaweed/kelp extracts. These are used by many growers to increase plant quality and yields, in particular, extracts from the Ascophyllum nodosum species are an all-time favorite of the industry. These extract have also been studied extensively for the past 40 years, with large amounts of evidence gathered about their effects and properties across several different plant species. In this article, I will be talking about what the research says about their use, why these extracts work, how these have usually been applied and what you should be looking for when using this type of bio-stimulant.

The use of kelp extracts is so common, that there was already enough research done about their use to publish a review on the subject in 1991 (1), a lot of the information below comes from this source. Seaweed has been used by farmers for hundreds of years, as it could be used as an alternative to lime in order to alkalinize acidic peatmoss soils, due to the high basicity of seaweed extracts (as some are very high in calcium carbonate content). Seaweed extracts also contain a lot of micro and macro nutrients – as shown above – in proportions that are useful for their use as fertilizer. They are a significant source of potassium and calcium, although the variability of the composition – as shown in the table above – can be quite important. They also contain micronutrients but their low presence relative to plant needs implies that the positive effects of the extracts are most likely not due to them.

Perhaps one of the most important factors surrounding seaweeds is their content of bioactive molecules. These extracts contain an important array of cytokinins, which are plant hormones that will significantly affect plant growth. Auxins, gibberillin-like substances and ethylene precursors like aminocyclopropanecarboxylic acid, have also been detected in seaweed extracts. The cytokinins are usually present in concentrations of around 2-20 ppm in the concentrated extracts, which are enough to cause effects, even if the final diluted versions will be at much lower concentrations. The application of seaweed extracts is usually done through an entire crop cycle and is usually cumulative in nature.

Application rate, frequency, seaweed species and extract processing methods can substantially affect results, with many contradictory results showing up in the literature, with some people showing increases in growth and yields while others show no effects at all. The review quoted above describes many examples of positive results, including examples showing weight gains, yield gains and increases in certain nutrients, like P and N. The review also talks about the ability of seaweed extracts to increase resistance to pests and improve crop quality. A more recent review from 2014 (2) further expands on a lot of these positive effects, citing extensive literature showing increases in yields, dry weights and quality for a wide variety of plant species. In total, more than 30 different papers showing increases in yields due to the use of kelp extracts are cited in this review. There are also more than 20 articles cited describing increases in disease resistance or other mechanisms of defense elicitation due to the use of the seaweed extracts.

Foliar applications of seaweed can be carried out at varied levels of frequency and concentration. Applications at a 0.2-0.5% w/v of dry extracts are most common, although higher or lower concentrations have also been found to be effective. As a root drench applications will tend to be on the lower side, as the seaweed contains a substantial amount of NaCl, which can be damaging to plants. Timing of applications can also be quite critical, some growers apply the extract equally spaced through the entire growing periods, while others attempt to time the application with a specific growth phase. Success is reported in both cases, although papers that describe different timing of single applications often find significant differences. To arrive at the optimal usage for a plant species it will be necessary to carry out tests with single applications at different intervals, although single weekly applications are likely to be successful if a less involved approach is desired.

Although the use of seaweed extracts can be very positive, it is also worth mentioning that it is very dependent on the quality and consistency of the extract being produced. Since we know that most of the positive effects of these seaweeds are related to their plant hormone content, their use can sometimes be replaced with specific applications of plant hormones, if the effects are properly understood. The discussion in (2) cited before points to the fact that kinetin applications have been able to match the effects of kelp extracts, at a fraction of the cost and the environmental impact at least in a few cases.

With all the above said, it is quite evident that kelp/seaweed extracts have been widely confirmed to have positive effects in the growing of plants, beyond any reasonable doubt. This effect is mostly related with the hormones they contain and is therefore dependent on the seaweed species, where it is grown and how the seaweed powder is generated. Although root and foliar applications of kelp can both be used to improve results, the use of foliar applications is often favored in order to avoid the introduction of some undesired ions into the growing media. If you’re not using kelp, go ahead, it’s bound to help!

I’ve written several articles in the past about how to characterize concentrated hydroponic nutrient solutions using simple yet highly accurate small scale methods. I have now released a video showing how this is all done in practice, using the B solution I showed how to prepare in a previous video.

Hydroponic growers tend to have very different experiences with nutrient solutions. It is not uncommon to find a grower who “swears” by product A and another who says product A delivers terrible results but product B is “the best”. This causes a lot of confusion among new growers since there doesn’t seem to be any agreement about what the “best formulation” is. Shouldn’t we know by now what the “best nutrients” are? Given how many crop cycles are grown each year and how many iterations growers go through, you would think it would be only a matter of time before we know for certain how to create the “perfect recipe” to maximize yields and minimize problems and diseases. Why haven’t we achieved an optimal formulation for each plant species? The answer, is that nutrition is not only about nutrients and optimal nutrients are only optimal for a very specific set of conditions.

Commercial hydroponic fertilizer manufacturers would want you to believe that they have figured it out. They have a given set of formulations for people using Coco, another for people using rockwool, some for hard water, some for soft water, a whole array of different products to choose from where you will certainly find one that suites your needs if you just follow their guidelines. However, these different products are formulated using very broad assumptions, for example that the Coco you use required initial pretreatment with Ca salt or that your input water will contain substantially large amounts of Ca and Mg, because it’s a “hard water” formulation.

Commercial products are also often made with implicit assumptions that depend on the experience of the people formulating the nutrients. For example a nutrient manufacturer might formulate nutrients that delivered excellent results while working at high VPD conditions, without realizing this was even the case. Another might formulate nutrients for the entire opposite case. A person testing a product might also like to only irrigate to a small amount of run-off, while another will irrigate till a large amount of run-off is collected. All these things affect the concentrations of nutrients the plants are exposed to, because they fundamentally affect the amount of water that the plants have access to and the transpiration demand the plant is subjected to.

This is why a grower might swear by a given nutrient formulation and be completely right in that it delivers amazing results, while another will find this formulation just gives mediocre results with a bunch of nutrient deficiencies. The temperature, humidity, media, irrigations per day, irrigation volumes, input water composition and nutrient ratios, all play a role in determining whether the plant is able to properly uptake nutrients and whether these nutrients are ideal for this case. I’ve seen a person using a low K, low Ca formulation for rockwool with pretty limited irrigations be quite successful with it, while another using the same formulations under high irrigation volumes had substantial problems. The first person was relying on large dry-backs to increase oxygenation and increase nutrient concentrations to a point that suited the plants very well, the second person failed with this formulation because nutrient concentrations were too low and were never able to reach the same values they reached for the first one with increased irrigation volumes and frequencies.

The development of an optimal formulation for a hydroponic crop is therefore a long process that needs to be guided by a considerable evolution from a given “good guess” base towards what is optimal for the specific conditions. More often than not, the formulation will be optimized alongside some constraints – like those dictated by climate control and light providing abilities – and will therefore be pretty tightly bound to the particular environment. My advice is to start from a good guess base, using the knowledge about the chemistry of the environment – input water, media – and to evolve that base using tissue analysis and crop yield results in order to achieve better and better results. Finding an ideal nutrient solution can take a lot of time and effort but it can substantially increase yields and improve quality levels.